The Munda Map from World War II. The right side of the map is where we walked with Barney to see his Museum, and where the Americans brought in, and eventually scuttled just about anything and everything used during the campaign.

The Tour Continues

Walking back to Agnes Lodge, we go through a field, one of which Barney calls the Desert. It was a high hill on the approach to the airport, and cleared by the US in 1942-43. Nothing grows there to this day. Right off the top of the hill we step into an area where familes grow sweet potatoes. There a wreckage that once again Dru climbs over and into. Fascinating. The aircraft went down on final approach. Fate of the Pilot is unknown, but an excellent view (straight line of site) to the airstrip. We must have flown over it on final approach coming in ourselves. Prior to leaving the field, Barney uncovers this exploded shell, that still lies in the area as if just dropped inadvertantly, last month, not 7 or 8 decades ago.

Personal memorablia from both sides of the war!

USMC Spoons, Class Rings, Dog Tags & Machettes

Some of the Contents

From Canteens to Shells, to Locks and hydrolics, Barney has uncovered it all.

The Footlocker

Inside Barney's foot locker he had personal military items that quite honestly, I was amazed at seeing.





Compass and whistles.






Brass Knuckle Knives
McNary Knuckle Knife(1918)














Part of his collection.













Practice grenades (painted yellow)

The Back of Palatini's Dog Tag

PhotoShop again. I must have been shaking more than I remembered. This is one of his finger prints on the back side of the Dog Tag pictured below.

Peter Joseph Palatini

Using PhotoShop, I have enhanced this image. I held the camera with my right hand, and took the shot of his dogtag in my left hand. Neither hands were steady at this point.

Barney had a "foot locker" type chest that his most cherished finds were stored, these dog tags were on top. I will post several more pictures of what he had in the chest.

Of course the outdoor museum, exposed to the elements, will get equal time on the blog as well.

One Mans Tribute: A forgotten Place & Time.

Okay, now I am getting into the hardest part of the trip for me. Barney's Museum.

To begin with, Barney Paulson is a humble man. He evidently uses an ancestral guide to help him locate items in the jungles of Munda. One such item was a dog tag. To my astonishment, a round tag, with a finger print on the back side. I held this dog tag (picture to follow) along with others. I can't tell you how foreboding the feeling is/was. [in retrospect only the Viet Nam wall has drawn me to such reflection] To hold a young mans dog tags, that for whatever reason was separated from him, possibly in combat, or in desperation, or even accidentally. But I held his and others with my tears of reverence and respect for these and the other un-hailed thousands that lived, fought, and died either physically or emotionally on this island.

And for Barney to name his Museum, which in Smithsonian standards was just a shack in the woods, but to me, and my sons, a spectacular shrine to the Army, Navy and Marine Corps men and women that were on this island, was an undeniable tribute to all the Americans that campaigned against the Japanese in 1942-1943.

I present to you, the Peter Joseph [Palatini] Museum on Munda Island, the Solomon Islands.

Barney's Mothers' Garden

The flowers were lower, but I chose to take this picture instead. A tribute to the unspoken children that disappeared and/or died in the Tsunami that hit the Solomon Islands. It did not get CNN coverage. But it affected the islands tremendously.

But it got worse.

Later, Barney walks us to this jungle bone yard. Here, amongst jeep motors, axles, scoop loaders, are which seemed hundreds of Landing Craft that the Americans, using torches, cut in half so that they were no longer serviceable, and stacked these American Made tools of war thirty to fifty feet high in an incredible pile of iron and steel. There were aircarft engines, props, naval craft, landing craft, vehicles, some with a scant amount of rubber tires attached to them, and hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of war scrap, left to disolve on the island of Muda.

Barney went on to tell us that this was only one of two majors dumps left by the Americans. We did not see the other, but he said that to this day, the locals go to the fuel dump and get oil for their chain saws. According to Barney, "thousands" of barrels were left with Petrol, Diesel, and various oils, in drums of course. The locals pump out of them, but if they attempt to move them, the rust wins, and the contents eventually just drain out of the drums. Seems a bit, well, bad for the environment, wouldn't you think?

At the end was this "Bunker" locked of course.

Dru was able to reach inside, and got a few pictures with the camera of the contents. Someone has the key, but we got the jest of what was now stored in the "Bunker". Seems salvaged American helmets, weapons and mess gear were amongst items we were able to identify from the pictures he took. Several of the locals had built there homes near the concrete slabs, and kids were playing at the edges, but for all the years and weather, the American concrete has lasted 70 plus years, and some of the artifacts remain in somewhat "healthy" condition. The locals think the Americans and their country are "rich" since our spoilage seemed so inconsequential to us, just to bring it to the Pacific, and then to dump it back into the ocean. Seems the war did not just cost us untold lives, but the raw materials that we "left" were phenomenal.

The waste of War

Seems that once the Japanese were driven out of the Solomon Islands, the Americans decided to turn the islands back over to British rule. Seems we had stockpiles of equipment, fuel, and ammunition's on the islands that we offered at a discount rate to the Brits. But they were not willing to buy what we left behind, so a "mop-up" operation was put into action where everything that was military was gathered up, at a location close to the shore, and stored until enough could be gathered to dispose of it.

Pictured first was the foundation for the concrete slab we walked on, where the Americans filled 55 gallon drums with sand, and poured the concrete slab on top, forming the platform, where Quonset Huts stored the items for disposal. The next picture shows one of the many bays, minus of course the Quonset Hut. Barney reported that row upon row of storage was brought there, and landing craft were then dispatched to take jeeps, weapons, medical and food out into Iron Bottom Sound, and dumped. Barney further reports that natives went out and were able to salvage food in cans for years afterward.

Barney Paulson - our Munda Guide

Munda was a pleasant, and unexpected surprise when it came to WWII relics. Here our guide that was set up for us at the last minute, is showing off a japanese machine gun a local had recovered and left in their yard. Several such "spots" exist around the area, and the next few posts will show them off, culminating with Barney's own museum that was fascinating and solemn at the same time. Barney was a father of 4 if I recall, and partly local native, part Scandinavian. But he smelled local. His awareness and "guided" ability to find war relics was quite keen. I could have spent an entire day at his museum, and regret that I did not.

Going Bananas

Literally right out the Security Gate of the Agnes Lodge was the Munda Landing, where the outlying islanders attempt to sell their (food) products to others. Sweet Potatoes, Clams, various vegetables, and a prolifera of Bettlenut! Amongst these we discovered bananas. Mom (Florence, now 99 years young) told me that they were safe to eat, and so we selected several types, from small, lemony tasting ones, to the longer, more familiar tasting ones we were a bit more accustomed to. $5 Solomon, or about 50 cents US, gets you a bunch and we ate them for a few days. Ripe on the tree, they taste different than the "imported green" ones we get at Safeway.

The Unknown Warrior - Skyline Ridge

The US Memorial atop Skyline Ridge, bearing a detailed description of the battles fought during the Guadalcanal Campaign. Let me say that the panoramic view of the island and the western battle sites from this vantage point was well chosen. The Guadalcanal Solomon Islands War Memorial Foundation built this site and "the building housing the Dept of Interior" or something like that, according to our Guide Chris Maelaua. Whomever was in charge, did one hell of a job. Sites pointed out were Tulagi, Gavutu -Tanambogo, and the Florida Islands. Also, oriented to Savo Island, "Iron Bottom Sound" (Where the US Navy suffered it's most devastating defeat of any war): as well as key terrain features ashore. This plaque as mentioned earlier, was placed before they DID identify the remains and returned them to the states. This was the best "site" for history, and reverence.

Alcohol Travel Advisory

If you plan to follow in our footsteps and visit the Solomon Islands, let me be the first to tell you that Alcohol procurement is a problem once there. Outer islands, forget it. If the bar does not sell it, it is not to be had. And since you are in transit (usually) from the states to let's say, Fiji, and then from Fiji to Vanatu, and then the Solomons, and each time you go through (mandatory) in-transit security, your alcohol WILL be confiscated at the check points. (Aussies are so temperamental about their Crown Royal being confiscated.) So the last BASTION of hope for Duty Free is at the in-transit Air Port on Vanuatu. We had a beer, but trusted that we could buy a bottle or two on Guadalcanal. Right, that's like going on the Indian Reservations and trying to buy hard alcohol. Seems the American Indians and the Solomon Natives are missing the same Gene necessary when it comes to processing alcohol, so there were not any liquor stores. And I am not too sure you want to be wandering the streets after you have bought the booze anyway! So everyone in your party should buy their alloted 2.5 litres of booze, and bring it in, from Vanuato, or else it's the hotel bars and prices that will bring you down to earth, quickly. We missed that it the travel brochure, along with a lot of other stuff, that will be covered later. Here Dru is buying two nasty beers, and a K&P for me. (Kiwi flavored 7-up, not great) from PNG (Papua New Guinea). We should have been buying Cubans and Patron, or Rum.

Flight To Munda Part 2

Not a lot to report, I don't know if you can click on the picture, but on my computer, it opens in another window. So you can read the captions. Air security, a joke, air safety, a joke, wanna walk out on the runway?, no problem, the staff at Agnes Lodge to greet us, not there, so we asked someone, and they said walk down to the end of the road and you will see the sign. We walked by several chain link fences surrounding metal buildings on a paved "street" and noticed once again the stain of beetle nut juice everywhere. Hot, Humid, nasty, constantly saying, "yup, the girls would not like this either". At the end of the street, there was a market at the dock, with everyone that boated in from outer islands setting up their mainly fruits and vegetables, and yes, the Agnes Lodge was there, again, surrounded by a chain link fence and even a gate keeper. Holy Slums Batman, we were leaving air conditioning comfort for this! More of Munda to come.

Our first, and actually best Puddle Jumper

Leaving Guadalcanal, for Munda, and the Agnes Lodge. The airport for national flights was far from pristine, but upon our return, it was the best of the three we visited. Interesting how perspecitives change as we went along. Todd and I sat outside the terminal (shack), where there was a bit of a draft, while Dru sat inside, monitoring the departures, since the PA system was non existent. Two ladies, of questionable diet and sanitary standards, sat a bench or so away, and digested a street vendors fish, that by all signs of flies and smell would have probably killed either of us. We were sure they would end up next to us, and the smell of "BO" was everywhere, through the entire trip. I even think with daily showers, I started smelling like the locals. It is a smell one does not get use to, ever. This flight actually had air conditioning, and for the one or so hour aloft, it was nice. Dru ended up sitting next to a candidate Politician. The 42 day campaigning had just begun, reason for the Australian government to have a travel advisory out for a "don't travel" zone to the Solomons. Oh great, where was our US notice! Oh, but wait, the UN was monitoring the elections - RIGHT. We saw two French "Observateurs" hired by the UN sitting at the Bar for two solid days on Munda monitoring - Wine. What a farce. Arms are now folded, and Todd in the back of my head, is saying shut up Dad! So I close on this one.

The Obligatory Spagetti Bolognese

A 'Paul Tradition', and still holding strong. Everywhere in the world, I can get beer (yuk) and Spaghetti Bolognese. (One such beer episode involved Dru and Todd actually aware of the taste of formaldehyde in their beer.) This Menu board in the heart (if that's the word for it) of Honiara, Guadalcanal, was at the Lyme Tree Rest. A gathering hole for mainly Aussies, and a few Kiwis, that frequent the islands. I did not actually eat it here, I had mine at the Agnes Lodge on Munda, two days later, and again, a second time. Not good, not bad. Interesting, every since the "civil war" as Dru calls it, an international police force was formed, and the islands are "policed" by white cops that have duty assignments anywhere from 6 months to 2 years. With rotations home. Todd gave me a hard time about walking up to an officer, and accoriding to him I started out the conversation with a male officer from New Zealand with, "I'm not from around here . . . " but I don't recall it that way. Interesting how a young brain works, versus an older, more mature one is.

Medal of Honor Receipients

In the Honiara Airport, on Guadalcanal, Henderson field still exists. And there are a few monuments, plaques and pictures honoring those that fought and for some died in this forgotten part of the world. I snapped every one I could and it would take pages to show them all, which some day I will actually attempt to publish, along with the aid of Todd and Dru. But this one really got me. The list shows the names of those awarded the US Medal of Honor. There was another showing the awards presented the Victoria Cross. I selected this one shot because of the extensive number of men presented the award just at this one campaign. Significant to me was Harold Bauer, who lost his life, but has an airfield two hours away in Vanuatu named after him, and for you Ed & Debi Huntsman, you will note, Douglas Albert MUNRO, SM 1/c of the US Coast Guard who, if I remember correctly, during a hostile evacuation of Marines he took his Naval Landing Craft and used it as a shield to draw fire and engage the enemy to protect the helpless Marines as they struggled in their evacuation. Tara is not allowed to use Wikipedia, but I trust this link is accurate - Munro Semper fi!

Dru is standing on a monument erected to signify the men who fought, lived and died on Bloody Ridge. Unfortunately after the "episode" of 2007, any metal of value, like Brass Plaques, were removed, weapons confiscated (by the government) and destroyed, even if they were 70 year old rifles. So little existed today, and few, very few, actually know the stories about the war. I, at 62, was a very old man to them. Life expectancy was between 50 and 60. So with few exceptions, the stories, sites, memorbilia, are going away, back to the jungle. Behind Dru is the Airport, used today as both International and National flights, the runway built by the Japanese, extended by the Americans, got twice as long for current air travel. The exterior of the chain link fence is lined with squatters living without electricity or running water. The River is near by, and captured rain water is the source for most water drinking. Coconuts are shucked and the tops removed, and most locals live on coconut water (not milk) that is really quit good.

More Thursday Guadalcanal

Bloody Ridge. It is on private property, so, courtesy "payments" are made to the owner to let us trespass and see the sites. The sites are kept clear so that you can see the smoothed out, former foxholes of where the Marines held off the Japanese, initially going from Hill 1 to Hill 2. The First Photo is basically looking South to Hill 2 from Hill 1, the River is to my left and this is the valley that was between 1 and 2, that the Japanese struggled first into, and few made it out of. The Marines were able to exit the Hill using high ground and did not have to go down into the valley and back up, and defended the high ground so the Japanese had no choice to struggle and die in the lowlands. I sat in a in an area that must have been lined with fox holes and machine gun emplacements set up by the defending young Marines. The Japanese had attempted to envelop the hill, and were nearly successful.

We are back, BTW

Unfortunately I have had to go back to work as well. So I have not posted any new items. But Edith and the kids were at the airport to welcome us home, so here is a shot of them. Notice that Todd got a bit "hairier" and Andy a bit taller, and Alexis a lot cuter!

Thursday Morning

Today is laundry day, and preparation for the trip to Agnes Lodge. Here is the intrepid leader posing in front of Solomon Islands heritage tiki posts that tell a story. Ask Paul when you see him.

Afternoon War Wreckage

Todd and Dru listening attentively to local guide Anderson as he discusses the various artillery and aircraft wreckage that his father and he have collected. Their collection is on tribal land and also contains the Allied forces memorials. Aircraft include the P-38, Corsair, Wildcat, and B-17. There were a few Japanese Zero engines, but no complete aircraft.

Morning Battlefield Tour

U.S. Memorial at Honaira, Guadalcanal. Very impressive marble display, built to last the ages, that details the beginning and end of the 8 month conflict at Guadalcanal. Starting with the Battle of Salvo Island, and ending with the capturing of the island from Japanese forces, the entire campaign is masterfully outlined.

This is also significant because many of the other monuments around the area, especially those with brass plates, have been reclaimed for scrap in the uprising a few years ago.

Enroute

Dru, who is typing this, HATES this photo....the only one taken enroute (thanks, Dad) and my eyes are closed.

Our Departures

Here Todd and I are departing Phx to LAX.


Todd was apprciative greatly of the Rum and Diet Cokes he had.










Todd asleep on Pacific Air enroute to Nadi, Fiji. 10.5 hour flight.

Thank you Karen, Jens and Kristen.

Karen, Jens and Kristen:
Thank you for the nice send off dinner Saturday night. The Bolognase and veal with Salad was superb. A meal fashioned after all my worldly highlights, as you know. Kristen, the Bombay's were decadent to say the least. And no Dustin, we are not turning left at the restrooms and going here! Castaway is not an option on this trip unless something blows up near the Solomon's. But here is a teaser just for you all. I guess you can follow Castaway on Facebook now, Kim and Niki! (I did not see any pictures of Emily).

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